Maybe you have been trying to keep squirrels out of your bird feeder but you haven’t had great success in keeping them away. Even if you buy the bird feeders that are categorized as squirrel proof many find that they are not squirrel proof. When it comes to keeping squirrels out of unwanted areas it may be hard due to the determination of the squirrel. When the squirrel sees his favorite seed the sunflower seed, he or she may go after it no holds barred no matter what the case may be. Sometimes it depends on where the bird feeders are placed, if they are placed conveniently next to a tree it is less likely that you will keep squirrels away. Finding tips that will help keep down the squirrel population on your bird feeder may not be enough. You may have to find products that will help you keep the squirrels away. There are a few things you can try before you make the decision to go buy a product. Moving your bird feeder away from trees or other objects squirrels can use to jump off of may help. Another suggestion is to not paint the metal pole of the bird feeder. When you do paint the metal it makes it easier for the squirrels to climb up. Choosing a feed that the squirrels are not especially fond of may be hard to do but keeping away from their favorites may help.

When all else fails there are actually safe products on the market that will allow you to keep the birds happy by keeping the squirrels away. There are actually products that you can place directly on the bird feeder and the birdseed that will not harm the birds but will deter the squirrels from coming around. Some of these products are also used to keep squirrels out of attics. When you use these products correctly they are effective and safe in deterring those squirrels from the birdfeeders.

When finding a product that will keep the squirrels out of your bird feeder it is important you pay attention to exactly what a product does. Products that are on the market to deter squirrels away from your property have different uses. Some products deter the squirrels from bothering plants and vegetation, while others stop them from entering indoor areas. When you need a product to do a specific thing it is important to know what product does what. When you are trying to keep squirrels from your bird feeder you must find a product that is designed specifically to do that.

Some may find that if they create a perimeter wall with a squirrel deterrent it may help but it may not keep them completely out of the bird feeders. Again, depending on where the feeders are and how determined a squirrel is may determine how well a repellent will work. The best way to keep the squirrels away from the bird food is a repellent that’s only purpose is protecting bird feeders from squirrels. When you know what each product does you will choose the right one to get the job done.

Article Source: http://www.approvedarticles.com

Late fall is a perfect time to photograph wild birds. Leaves are falling off the trees, opening the view and birds are eager to feed. And if you’re participating in one of the several organized bird counts taking place between now and mid-February, a photographic record can be invaluable in identifying the counted birds.

As common as birds are, and as photogenic as many of them are, they are maddeningly difficult to photograph. It’s challenging to get close enough for a decent shot, and birds never seem to sit still for the camera. Lighting, focus, and exposure can be tricky, fooling even the best automatic exposure and focus mechanisms. So what do you do?

Technique
As with any photography, knowing your subject will improve your photographs. Spend some time watching the behavior of birds around your feeder. You’ll notice certain patterns. Do they first land on a nearby branch before going to your feeder? Do they return once they have grabbed a morsel? Do some birds feed off the spilled seed on the ground? Do they favor a certain spot on your feeder? What time of day do various species feed? When will the best light fall on your birds?

Getting close to the subject is the key to successful bird photography, or any photography, for that matter. Cameras have a funny way of making things look larger through the viewfinder than they will on the print. If you’ve tried to photograph birds, you know that the bird often appears only as a small dark spot on the print. But with a little ingenuity, you can get close enough for decent photographs. Here are some ideas for getting close to your subject.

The most common solution is the blind. You can buy blinds made for the purpose from professional camera stores, but an old tent or tarp can be just as effective. A visit to your big-box sporting goods section can be worth while as well. Even a car can be an effective blind. What ever you use put it in place two or three days before you plan to photograph so the birds will get used to it.

Patience is a virtue. When you go into your blind, the birds will leave, but only temporarily. But you should plan to be in your blind for some time, maybe a few hours. So have some water and snacks with you, and take care of necessities before you go to the blind. You will be sitting still, so in cold weather layers, gloves and a hat will be needed.

A great solution is to place your feeders near a clear window, and you can photograph from the comfort of your own home! Feeders are even available that fit on the window sill or stick to the window glass. You will need to darken the room as much as possible to avoid reflections and, of course, clean the glass.

It is only necessary that the camera be close – you don’t necessarily have to be close yourself. Remote releases, both wired and wireless, are available for most popular camera brands. To use this method, you will need to set your exposure and focus the camera on a spot where you know birds will land. Experiment with your aperture setting to provide some focusing leeway for birds that aren’t exactly at your focus point.

Before we leave the topic of blinds, keep in mind that the safety of the birds is more important than any photograph you may get. Do not position yourself or your blind where you will interfere with nesting birds.

As mentioned, getting close is the most important technique, but here are some other tips to help you get the knock-out image. First, get familiar with your camera’s aperture and shutter priority modes, as well as its manual mode because you will want to set the shutter speed and aperture yourself. Try a shutter speed of about 1/1000 or 2/1000 seconds to stop the motion of the birds. Open your lens almost – but not quite – as wide as it will go. This will help “fuzz out” the back ground, and moving down from wide open improves image sharpness. Set your focusing mode to use its center point focus – don’t let the camera pick the focus point, because it will likely pick the wrong one.

Exposure can be tricky as well. A bright bird against a dark wooded background that fills most of the frame is sure to cause over exposure of the bird. As mentioned above, don’t rely solely on the automatic exposure modes (automatic, program, aperture priority, shutter priority) of your camera. You will need to learn the exposure compensation feature, or better yet, the manual mode, in which you set the aperture and shutter speed yourself.

If you use flash, practice with it before hand so that you can get the right amount of flash dialed in. You want just enough flash to open the shadow areas, but too much flash overpowers the background and makes the entire image look unrealistic. The right amount of flash will make the bird “pop” against its background and will provide that pleasing catch-light in the eye.

Photography is painting with light. You simply cannot – cannot – take good images in bad light. Study the lighting of your bird photography area. Look for times when your birds will be side lit, generally in the morning or afternoon. At those times the light will have a pleasing “warm” characteristic that will enhance your image. Avoid the middle of the day. The strong down light and harsh shadows don’t make for good photos. Cloudy days are great too, because the light is so even and colors pop. (Hint: exposure is much simpler on cloudy days.)

Equipment
Professional wildlife photographers will spend many thousands of dollars on cameras and big telephoto lenses, and will go to enormous effort and personal discomfort to get “the shot.” However, you can get great bird photos with relatively modest equipment and without wading through swamps.

Although it is possible to photograph birds with any film or digital point and shoot (PS), a digital single-lens-reflex (DSLR) will be more satisfying and produce superior results. The DSLR does not suffer from the frustrating shutter delay of most digital PS cameras. This delay may be up to one second, rendering them unsuitable for fast moving birds. The DSLR will also offer burst exposures of three or more frames per second, and the capability of accepting telephoto lenses, which will help with the getting close part.

The sensor in a DSLR is many times larger than the sensor in a PS, meaning that the DSLR images will enlarge better with less noise. The DSLR has much higher ISO capability (800, 1600 and beyond) than PS cameras, allowing you to use fast shutter speeds even in relatively dim light. Finally, with a DSLR, you can shoot as much as you want – for free.

The next required piece of equipment is a tripod. The tripod is necessary to stabilize even moderate telephoto lenses if you want sharp images. Holding the camera to your eye for some period of time will tire your arms, and lifting the camera to point it out of the blind will scatter the birds. Make certain you get one that will solidly support your camera, the largest lens you anticipate using, and possibly a flash unit. The tripod head (the part that attaches to the camera) should allow the camera to be aimed and re aimed without making any adjustments to the head itself. Tripods come in all sizes and prices, and the better ones do not come with a head. Your best bet is to consult a good, professional photo shop.

Using flash can help a bird’s natural colors “pop,” even in bright daylight. The purpose of flash is not so much to supply the light, as it is to reduce contrast by “opening up” shadow areas. Most entry level and “prosumer” DSLRs come with a built in flash, but an external flash will provide better results. They have more power, and are less likely to cause shadows in the image from long lenses and lens shades. Good flash units are expensive, so the built in flash is certainly worth a try.

Many books have been written about photographing birds, and there’s a huge amount of information on the Internet. While it’s not possible to cover the entire topic in one article, these tips should get you off and shooting. Bird photography is challenging, but with the right equipment, technique, and some practice, you can produce wonderful images.

Article Source: http://www.hobbyarticledirectory.com

Janet Winter is a web designer, owner of three e-commerce sites, and writer on many topics including dogs, babies, wild birds, the Internet and travel. Her e-commerce sites are: WildBirdGoodies.com , APamperedDog.com , and WelcomeBabyGifts.com

Do you ever have a day when you have nothing to do ?, You know them times when your on the internet in some chat room, and you type ‘ I’m bored ! ‘, or your flipping through the TV channels, and you say to yourself or out loud ‘ 250 channels, and nothing good to watch ! ‘, yes, you know what I am talking about. Now you have something you can do on them so called boring days, go bird watching.

No matter where you live you probably have birds of some kind, even folks in New York have central park and other places where they can go bird watching. There are three things you should have when bird watching, these are a pair of binoculars, a notebook, and a bird guide.

Binoculars can be purchased for under $60 at most Kmart or Walmart stores. Binoculars with a magnification of 10 x 50 are perfect for bird watching. Don’t think that a more powerful pair of binoculars like 20 x 60 or 30 x 80 are better, this is not the case. Stronger binoculars are fine if you are into star gazing, but they are horrible for bird watching. The higher powered binoculars need a tripod to use them without shaking, and even without a tripod, the powerful binoculars are larger and can be very heavy to carry around, the 10 x 50 ones are perfect for every occasion.

A small tablet or notebook can be purchased at most stores, don’t get nothing expensive just a small spiral one will do fine. Now the last thing is the most important item when it comes to bird watching. If you are truly going to watch birds, you should know what type of birds you are looking at when you spot a new one, so visit your local book store or look in the birding section of an online bookstore, such as amazon, at the end of this article I have a website address that has some of Amazons best bird guides, videos, binoculars and more.

Ok, so you have your binoculars, notebook and pencil, and your bird guide, now let’s go outside and go bird watching. I am sure you won’t have to walk very far to spot a bird or two. I am lucky enough to currently live here in the country, all I have to do is open my door and I will hear the sounds of birds. If I step outside my front door, I can often see sparrows or finches, in the spring time the yard always has a couple robins hopping around, and crows flying around the nearby woods, high overhead I often see turkey buzzards soaring against the blue sky. One time I opened my front door and across the road in the top of a large tree a horned owl was sitting, it stayed there for about 10 minutes, turning it’s head often as it looked around.

If you have any grassy, wooded or open areas with trees or bushes, you can usually find birds. One of the best things about bird watching is anyone can do it, even if your in a wheelchair, you can sit and watch birds. It’s a great recreation for anyone that is alone, or for the whole family to do together.

When you go out, remember to take your bird watching items with you, your binoculars, notebook and pencil, and bird guide. When you spot a bird look in your binoculars too see all it’s beauty in close detail, if you do not recognize the species of bird your seeing, get out your bird guide and look it up. When you realize the type of bird you see, write down in your notebook the following information; ‘ the name of the bird, the area where it was spotted, the date, and time ‘. The information in your notebook, helps you understand what types of birds frequent your area, it also is pretty neet being able to read back and see when you spotted a new or rare bird.

If you have a yard, tree or even a window you can attract birds by installing a simple feeder. Bird feeders are very inexpensive and they have feeders that can hang on a tree branch, or fence, or even stick to the outside of a window.

Attracting different species of birds often requires different types of bird seed and other food. Hummingbirds are attracted to red, pink and orange flowers, they especially like trumpet vines or other tubular-flowered plants, they are also very attracted to hummingbird feeders filled with sugar water or red sweetened kool-aid. Robins like mowed lawns, so in the spring and summer if you want to see robins, mow your grass, the birds come looking for bugs and earthworms that are more easily accessible because you cut the grass length. Goldfinches love thistle seed, thistle is more expensive then most common bird seed, but you cannot beat it if you want to attract goldfinches. Blue Jays are large and sometimes noisy, but if you want to bring them, put out a feeder full of black oil sunflower seeds. Cardinals are very neat looking, there is nothing nicer than looking out the window in the winter, and seeing a bright red cardinal sitting on a nearby tree branch or feeder. Cardinals are like Blue Jays, in that they both love a diet of black oil sunflower seeds. If you want to attract sparrows, a bag of plain mixed bird seed will do just fine.

There is Computer Software that is made just for ‘ Bird Watching ‘. The software is called: ‘ Bird Watcher Professional ‘, you can read the details and download a trial version of it for free at this website address:

http://www.rb59.com/bwpro

Here is a website address that has some of the best Bird Guides (Books), Videos, Binoculars and other birding equipment that Amazon sells:

http://www.rb59.com/bwpro/bird-watching-information.html

By Robert W. Benjamin

Copyright © 2006

You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter or on your web site as long as it is reprinted in its entirety and without modification except for formatting needs or grammar corrections.

Article Source: http://articles411.com

Robert W. Benjamin has been in the software business on the internet for over 5 years, and has been producing low-cost software for the past 25+ years. He first released software on the AMIGA and C64 computer systems in the late 1970’s-80’s. RB59 Software www.rb59.com/software

Introduction:

A chicken coop is an enclosure in which the chickens are kept. The interior of the housing have nest boxes for the chickens to lay eggs, and also has perches for the birds to sleep on.

The intside and outside of a chicken coop is usually covered with material such as straw or wood chips. These collect the chicken waste making it easier to clean. A chicken coop would generally have enough ventilation for air circulation that helps out any odors that may occur.

How to build a chicken coop:

There are six crucial elements in building a chicken coop -

The appearance:

Before you get on to constructing a chicken coop, sketch out the design of the kind of coop you need. It is not only the construction that you need to chalk out, but also the colors that you are going to use on the roof and walls of your chicken coop.

The coop should not act as a distraction to your neighborhood if it is clearly visible to your neighbors, or be a defacement of the surroundings where you live. Therefore, your chicken coop should have an aesthetic design and have no complaints from your neighbors.

Use sound judgement:

You should always use your sound judgement when constructing a chicken coop. You would be better off in using building materials which would allow you to clean the coop easily. The door of your coop should always open inwards, and it is always better to have sliding doors so that chickens cannot come out to roost on your windows. You should consider constructing the floor of your chicken coop with material which you can be easily hosed without leaving to many puddles.

To find the most suited solution regarding Build a chicken coop review, it takes a little careful planning.

Protection from Hazardous Elements:

Your chicken coop must be built in such a way that it can protect your chickens from hazardous elements such as heavy rain, wind, hale, snow, cold climates, etc, and from being eaten or killed by hungry predators.

The coop should protect the chicken from being stolen as well. The coop should be protected from draft with windows that can be opened and shut, having proper screening system, for example, a heavy gage mesh wire.

Your chicken coop must have adequate drainage where rain water may flow out keeping the coop dry. You need to position your chicken coop in an area where it gets the Sun which will keep the chickens warm and dry.

Coop ventilation:

You have already taken care in protecting your chicken coop from drafts. At the same time you need to maintain ventilation in the coop, allowing fair to move freely inside. The chickens inside the coop are quite safe with cold being kept out, but at the same time they would need air to breathe.

It is very necessary that the carbon dioxide accumulating inside your chicken coop be removed regularly replaced by fresh air in order that the chickens can breathe. There has to be ample movement of fresh air inside with cold drafts being kept away from entering the coop.

Light Source:

You would want your chickens to be kept warm during the cold months and yet have solid source of ventilation during the hot months of the year. Placing your chicken coop facing the South would be a good idea, where the coop may get Sunlight and air through-out the day.

You should also consider an electrical light source which will help the chickens produce great eggs all the year round. This light could easily be installed at the height of the chicken coop’s ceiling, and this would help keep the chickens warm and laying better eggs through-out the year.

Conveniently placed Water and Chicken Feeders:

You should always look into if water and chicken feeders have been placed at right places, and the flock has easy access to those areas. You should also take care in placing the containers knowing that the chickens like to make a mess of everything they eat. Try and place the feeders at the back of the chicken at a height where the chickens have to stretch their necks to eat and would not be able to reach the feeders with their feet.

Summary:

There are definitely ways to build your chicken house inexpensively. When designing your chicken coop, safety of your chickens would be your primary concern. Along with this, you should look into design factors which would keep your chickens warm and dry during the winter months, and properly aired during the summer.

Introduction:

A chicken coop is an enclosure in which the chickens are kept. The interior of the housing have nest boxes for the chickens to lay eggs, and also has perches for the birds to sleep on.

The intside and outside of a chicken coop is usually covered with material such as straw or wood chips. These collect the chicken waste making it easier to clean. A chicken coop would generally have enough ventilation for air circulation that helps out any odors that may occur.

How to build a chicken coop:

There are six crucial elements in building a chicken coop -

The appearance:

Before you get on to constructing a chicken coop, sketch out the design of the kind of coop you need. It is not only the construction that you need to chalk out, but also the colors that you are going to use on the roof and walls of your chicken coop.

The coop should not act as a distraction to your neighborhood if it is clearly visible to your neighbors, or be a defacement of the surroundings where you live. Therefore, your chicken coop should have an aesthetic design and have no complaints from your neighbors.

Use sound judgement:

You should always use your sound judgement when constructing a chicken coop. You would be better off in using building materials which would allow you to clean the coop easily. The door of your coop should always open inwards, and it is always better to have sliding doors so that chickens cannot come out to roost on your windows. You should consider constructing the floor of your chicken coop with material which you can be easily hosed without leaving to many puddles.

To find the most suited solution regarding Build a chicken coop review, it takes a little careful planning.

Protection from Hazardous Elements:

Your chicken coop must be built in such a way that it can protect your chickens from hazardous elements such as heavy rain, wind, hale, snow, cold climates, etc, and from being eaten or killed by hungry predators.

The coop should protect the chicken from being stolen as well. The coop should be protected from draft with windows that can be opened and shut, having proper screening system, for example, a heavy gage mesh wire.

Your chicken coop must have adequate drainage where rain water may flow out keeping the coop dry. You need to position your chicken coop in an area where it gets the Sun which will keep the chickens warm and dry.

Coop ventilation:

You have already taken care in protecting your chicken coop from drafts. At the same time you need to maintain ventilation in the coop, allowing fair to move freely inside. The chickens inside the coop are quite safe with cold being kept out, but at the same time they would need air to breathe.

It is very necessary that the carbon dioxide accumulating inside your chicken coop be removed regularly replaced by fresh air in order that the chickens can breathe. There has to be ample movement of fresh air inside with cold drafts being kept away from entering the coop.

Light Source:

You would want your chickens to be kept warm during the cold months and yet have solid source of ventilation during the hot months of the year. Placing your chicken coop facing the South would be a good idea, where the coop may get Sunlight and air through-out the day.

You should also consider an electrical light source which will help the chickens produce great eggs all the year round. This light could easily be installed at the height of the chicken coop’s ceiling, and this would help keep the chickens warm and laying better eggs through-out the year.

Conveniently placed Water and Chicken Feeders:

You should always look into if water and chicken feeders have been placed at right places, and the flock has easy access to those areas. You should also take care in placing the containers knowing that the chickens like to make a mess of everything they eat. Try and place the feeders at the back of the chicken at a height where the chickens have to stretch their necks to eat and would not be able to reach the feeders with their feet.

Summary:

There are definitely ways to build your chicken house inexpensively. When designing your chicken coop, safety of your chickens would be your primary concern. Along with this, you should look into design factors which would keep your chickens warm and dry during the winter months, and properly aired during the summer.

Article Source: http://www.articlewarehouse.com

For more information and advice on Build a chicken coop, please visit our website today and see our no-nonsense FREE reviews. Our detailed and upfront reviews will assist you to end up with the perfect chicken coop to best suit your needs.

Set a Feast for your Feathered Friends February is “Feed the Birds” month in much of North America. And what great timing! If you’re going through a cold winter, you can help the wintering birds that are going through it with you. If you live further south, you’ll have not only year-round feathered friends to feed, but also an influx of migrating visitors from colder climates.

If you grow native plants in your garden, chances are good you already have quite a few feathered visitors already. If you’d like to supplement that, or if nothing in your garden attracts birds, here are some tips for successful birdfeeder use.

There are three main factors to consider when you choose where to place a feeder:

There must be easy year-round access. You’ll have to clean and fill the feeder in all types of weather.

There will always be debris under a bird feeding station, such as discarded shells, bird droppings, and so on. Choose a location where this can be easily cleaned up.

If there are squirrels in your neighborhood, you’ll want to place the feeder where they can’t reach it. Sure, they’re cute but they won’t share their food with the birds. The best solution for this problem is a pole-mounted feeder (the pole should be a least 10 feet from the nearest tree limb or trunk) that is either “squirrel- proof” or protected by a baffle.

The first priority with the seed in a feeder is to keep it dry. Seed will spoil quickly when it gets damp or wet and can breed diseases like salmonella.

Look for feeders with some type of roof or dome to keep out direct rain water.

Be sure there are drainage holes in the bottom of both the seed hopper and any seed tray.

Clean the bird feeder regularly. How often will depend on the weather and the type of feeder you’ve chosen.

Birds are notoriously picky eaters and they will methodically discard most of the seeds in a seed mix to get to their favorite. Seeds that wind up on the ground are likely to be contaminated by dampness and bird droppings and will be unappetizing to the birds. If you leave the debris there, you will most likely attract rodents.

To prevent a great deal of waste, choose only the types of food that will attract the birds you want. The U.S. Fish CHAR(38) Wildlife Service recommends putting out separate feeders for each food. Why not give these a try?

With most birds that visit tube and house-type feeders, the hands-down favorite is black oil sunflower seeds. A tube feeder with sunflower seeds will attract goldfinches, woodpeckers, chickadees, and nuthatches. If you add a tray, you’re likely to also see cardinals, jays and finches. A bonus: sunflower seeds are NOT the first pick of crows and starlings.

Doves and several types of sparrows enjoy millet served in a house or platform feeder.

A hanging suet feeder will be a treat for woodpeckers, as well as chickadees, wrens, nuthatches and cardinals. Starlings also like suet but you can discourage them by using a suet feeder with access only at the bottom. Starlings are reluctant to perch upside down but chickadees and woodpeckers don’t mind at all. If you’re in a warmer climate, use commercially rendered suet cakes that are safe for use in the heat, rather than raw beef fat.

There is no research to indicate that backyard bird feeding has a negative effect on wild bird populations. In fact, it may help in many situations, such as when natural food sources are scarce or birds are migrating. Once you start feeding though, you should keep it up throughout the year. And don’t let the feeders get empty before re-filling, or the birds will look for food elsewhere and may take a while to find you again.

What specific birds you attract and feed will vary depending on your location and the treats you offer. You can look in a bird field guide to determine which species are likely to be in your area and then look up what foods are their favorites. So get out there and feed the birds!
___________________________________________________
Debbie Rodgers owns and operates Paradise Porch, and is dedicated to helping people create outdoor living spaces that nurture and enrich them. Visit her on the web at http://www.paradiseporch.com and get a free report on “Eight easy ways to create privacy in your outdoor space”. Mail to debbie@p…
___________________________________________________

Set a Feast for your Feathered Friends February is “Feed the Birds” month in much of North America. And what great timing! If you’re going through a cold winter, you can help the wintering birds that are going through it with you. If you live further south, you’ll have not only year-round feathered friends to feed, but also an influx of migrating visitors from colder climates.

If you grow native plants in your garden, chances are good you already have quite a few feathered visitors already. If you’d like to supplement that, or if nothing in your garden attracts birds, here are some tips for successful birdfeeder use.

There are three main factors to consider when you choose where to place a feeder:

There must be easy year-round access. You’ll have to clean and fill the feeder in all types of weather.

There will always be debris under a bird feeding station, such as discarded shells, bird droppings, and so on. Choose a location where this can be easily cleaned up.

If there are squirrels in your neighborhood, you’ll want to place the feeder where they can’t reach it. Sure, they’re cute but they won’t share their food with the birds. The best solution for this problem is a pole-mounted feeder (the pole should be a least 10 feet from the nearest tree limb or trunk) that is either “squirrel- proof” or protected by a baffle.

The first priority with the seed in a feeder is to keep it dry. Seed will spoil quickly when it gets damp or wet and can breed diseases like salmonella.

Look for feeders with some type of roof or dome to keep out direct rain water.

Be sure there are drainage holes in the bottom of both the seed hopper and any seed tray.

Clean the bird feeder regularly. How often will depend on the weather and the type of feeder you’ve chosen.

Birds are notoriously picky eaters and they will methodically discard most of the seeds in a seed mix to get to their favorite. Seeds that wind up on the ground are likely to be contaminated by dampness and bird droppings and will be unappetizing to the birds. If you leave the debris there, you will most likely attract rodents.

To prevent a great deal of waste, choose only the types of food that will attract the birds you want. The U.S. Fish CHAR(38) Wildlife Service recommends putting out separate feeders for each food. Why not give these a try?

With most birds that visit tube and house-type feeders, the hands-down favorite is black oil sunflower seeds. A tube feeder with sunflower seeds will attract goldfinches, woodpeckers, chickadees, and nuthatches. If you add a tray, you’re likely to also see cardinals, jays and finches. A bonus: sunflower seeds are NOT the first pick of crows and starlings.

Doves and several types of sparrows enjoy millet served in a house or platform feeder.

A hanging suet feeder will be a treat for woodpeckers, as well as chickadees, wrens, nuthatches and cardinals. Starlings also like suet but you can discourage them by using a suet feeder with access only at the bottom. Starlings are reluctant to perch upside down but chickadees and woodpeckers don’t mind at all. If you’re in a warmer climate, use commercially rendered suet cakes that are safe for use in the heat, rather than raw beef fat.

There is no research to indicate that backyard bird feeding has a negative effect on wild bird populations. In fact, it may help in many situations, such as when natural food sources are scarce or birds are migrating. Once you start feeding though, you should keep it up throughout the year. And don’t let the feeders get empty before re-filling, or the birds will look for food elsewhere and may take a while to find you again.

What specific birds you attract and feed will vary depending on your location and the treats you offer. You can look in a bird field guide to determine which species are likely to be in your area and then look up what foods are their favorites. So get out there and feed the birds!
___________________________________________________
Debbie Rodgers owns and operates Paradise Porch, and is dedicated to helping people create outdoor living spaces that nurture and enrich them. Visit her on the web at http://www.paradiseporch.com and get a free report on “Eight easy ways to create privacy in your outdoor space”. Mail to debbie@p…
___________________________________________________

Article Source: http://www.articlewarehouse.com

Ken Kavulia, 62

We kind of had a hard time that day. Not much variety—loads of shore sparrows that are not too spectacular. But we did see a cedar waxwing, a pretty impressive bird. It’s got a tufted head and a light-tan body, grayish wings, a brown head. Don’t take my word for the colors too much. I’m partially color-blind.

My wife’s sister was visiting us from Germany. She’s a bird-watcher, too, so we took her to some of the better areas along the Shore. We started in Allaire State Park that day, then went to Sandy Hook. Both are in Monmouth County. We decided to save Brigantine for another day. We try and get out once a month for bird-watching, just to see what’s new. It was a beautiful day, bright, clear skies. The temperature was very comfortable.

I’m a retired computer programmer, my wife was a biotechnician. She and I met in Iceland. She was returning home to Germany after working in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, at the university. I was visiting Europe for the first time. We both took Icelandic Airlines. At that time, Icelandic required that you stop over in Iceland on your way to Europe. So while I was there I took a tour, and she was on the bus, and we met. I would have been 28. She would have been 30. We didn’t see many birds. That was before I got interested in birds.

She gave me her address and said, ‘If you’re in Nuremberg, stop at my parents’ house.’ And I did. I met her parents there, and she showed me around Nuremberg. Then I continued on my journey. We exchanged letters after that and dated for a couple of years. She came here once. I went over there a few times. It got very expensive. We decided it was cheaper to get married than to continue dating.

I liked nature, but I had never had any experience with birds, growing up in Bayonne. When we moved down here—we live in Howell—we saw so much bird life in the backyard that we got a little guidebook and started trying to identify the ones that came around to our feeder. And we started visiting different parks around here. We would see some of the shore birds. Then we went down to Cape May and Brigantine, which are wonderful bird spots. It developed gradually.

There used to be more birds around, but a lot of development has taken place, so we don’t quite see all the species we did before. There was something called a pine siskin—it looks kind of like a small sparrow, but it has a little yellow under the wings. That was a nice bird. The most spectacular one was something called an evening grosbeak. It’s got a yellow breast, a yellow mask, and yellow on its back, black-and-white wings, a black tail, a black cap on its head. This is the male I’m describing. It’s a little more gaudy than the female. The first year we saw, I think, over twenty pairs of evening grosbeaks. After that there were less of them, and then perhaps five years later, in the early ‘80s—well, we haven’t seen any since then.

Ken Kavulia, 62

We kind of had a hard time that day. Not much variety—loads of shore sparrows that are not too spectacular. But we did see a cedar waxwing, a pretty impressive bird. It’s got a tufted head and a light-tan body, grayish wings, a brown head. Don’t take my word for the colors too much. I’m partially color-blind.

My wife’s sister was visiting us from Germany. She’s a bird-watcher, too, so we took her to some of the better areas along the Shore. We started in Allaire State Park that day, then went to Sandy Hook. Both are in Monmouth County. We decided to save Brigantine for another day. We try and get out once a month for bird-watching, just to see what’s new. It was a beautiful day, bright, clear skies. The temperature was very comfortable.

I’m a retired computer programmer, my wife was a biotechnician. She and I met in Iceland. She was returning home to Germany after working in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, at the university. I was visiting Europe for the first time. We both took Icelandic Airlines. At that time, Icelandic required that you stop over in Iceland on your way to Europe. So while I was there I took a tour, and she was on the bus, and we met. I would have been 28. She would have been 30. We didn’t see many birds. That was before I got interested in birds.

She gave me her address and said, ‘If you’re in Nuremberg, stop at my parents’ house.’ And I did. I met her parents there, and she showed me around Nuremberg. Then I continued on my journey. We exchanged letters after that and dated for a couple of years. She came here once. I went over there a few times. It got very expensive. We decided it was cheaper to get married than to continue dating.

I liked nature, but I had never had any experience with birds, growing up in Bayonne. When we moved down here—we live in Howell—we saw so much bird life in the backyard that we got a little guidebook and started trying to identify the ones that came around to our feeder. And we started visiting different parks around here. We would see some of the shore birds. Then we went down to Cape May and Brigantine, which are wonderful bird spots. It developed gradually.

There used to be more birds around, but a lot of development has taken place, so we don’t quite see all the species we did before. There was something called a pine siskin—it looks kind of like a small sparrow, but it has a little yellow under the wings. That was a nice bird. The most spectacular one was something called an evening grosbeak. It’s got a yellow breast, a yellow mask, and yellow on its back, black-and-white wings, a black tail, a black cap on its head. This is the male I’m describing. It’s a little more gaudy than the female. The first year we saw, I think, over twenty pairs of evening grosbeaks. After that there were less of them, and then perhaps five years later, in the early ‘80s—well, we haven’t seen any since then.

Article Source: http://www.articlewarehouse.com

Click here to read the rest of Tweet Peepers. If you enjoyed this article, you also might like our other stories that talk about NJ Shore.

A gazebo is an attractive addition to any yard or property. They serve a variety of purposes as a place to sit and relax or even a place to enjoy a drink with some friends while playing some cards.

When picking the gazebo that is right for you, there are a variety of things to keep in mind. Where should the gazebo be placed? Which gazebo should I pick? Why is this gazebo right for me? All these and even more questions may run through your mind. Let this quick guide help you pick the right gazebo for you and your property.

When picking a gazebo there are a variety of factors to take into account. Some quick questions that come to mind are ‘where should I place the gazebo,’ ‘how big should the gazebo be,’ and ‘what should my gazebo look like?’ The biggest choice that one must make is where the gazebo is to be placed. Answering this question will give you the ability to answer the any further questions you have. The size of the gazebo and how the landscaping should be shaped around it will all be answered with this question.

The placement of the gazebo should be centered on the most scenic part of the yard. Not only should it be placed in the most scenic part of the yard, it should be placed there so that anyone sitting inside the gazebo has the ability to see a 360 degree view of the most scenic part of your property. This gives you the chance to enjoy the scenery from any angle and does not allow anyone sitting inside the gazebo to feel as though they have been left out or need to sit a certain way to enjoy the surroundings.

By answering where you want the gazebo to be placed, you have given yourself the ability to answer how big the gazebo will be and what it should look like. The size of the gazebo should be done in comparison with the surrounding foliage. You do not want the gazebo to be so large that everything around it will feel as though it is dwarfed. You can get away with this by letting the foliage accent the gazebo. You could let a vine or two climb on the gazebo, which in effect makes the gazebo feel smaller and more apart of the scenery.

When picking the color and type of gazebo, the choice you make must look at the surrounding scenery. You don’t want to pick a gazebo that stands out and brings all the attention to itself. You should pick one that accents the foliage and scenery around it. By letting it accent rather than draw attention, it will allow it to look much more natural.

There are a variety of things you could do to accent your gazebo. You may want to plant some flowers or shrubs around the outside. If you are a bird lover, you may want to place a birdhouse, birdbath, or some bird feeders right outside. If you love the tranquil sound of running water, you may want to accent it with small pond with a running fountain. The possibilities of what you could do are endless with a gazebo.

The choice of where to place the gazebo and which gazebo to pick is a tough one. There is no true answer as to which one is right for everyone or for every scenic property. The choice must be made on a case by case basis. This article has, hopefully, helped make your decision ma much easier one and given you much more time to do something you like, like tennis, softball, or Warhammer Online.

Article Source: http://www.approvedarticles.com

Anyone can get involved in birding. Also known as bird watching in most areas, this activity is open to people of all experience levels and physical abilities. For many, birding represents an opportunity to be outside, to enjoy nature, and to enjoy the company of people who have similar interests. Still others find a sense of accomplishment by being involved in something that is pro-actively encouraging the preservation of our planet.

Beginners, or those new to birding, will find that more experienced and knowledgeable bird watchers are more than eager and willing to pass on whatever skills and methods that they may have acquired themselves. Bird watchers do not tend to be a selfish bunch and are quite happy to see everyone enjoying the day. The accessibility of the activity often surprises those who are just developing an interest in birding. One can have some great bird watching experiences right in his or her own back yard!

Of course, any activity that welcomes new hobbyists or participants must have veterans who make them feel welcome and who are willing to pass on what they know. Veteran bird watchers often take as much pleasure teaching and guiding newcomers as they do in their own bird watching activities.

Ultimately, this necessary relationship between rookie and veteran bird watchers is vital to the continued growth of the movement. There is much more at stake than just recruiting new folks to join us in going to a bird watching destination. Driving the very core of the conservation movement that protects the habitats where the birds nest, feed, and live is people who have a passion for birdiing. In order for this passion to stay alive, and thus conservation efforts, there must be an ever growing and on going relationship between those who know and those who wish to learn.

The birds stand to gain the most out of these relationships that exist within the bird watch community. Ultimately, this must be about more than just us and our own passions and hobbies. It must be about the protection of habitat and the preservation of the things in this world that are beautiful.

The importance of this mandate is clearly stated in the first point of the Code of Birding Ethics. Point 1(a) reads, “Support the protection of bird habitat.” It is no small thing that this is the first ethic listed. Those who stand as icons and leaders within the birding community recognize that, without a conservation mindset, the future is bleak, not only for bird watchers, but for the birds as well.

Article Source: http://www.hobbyarticledirectory.com

Mike Selvon is the owner of various niche portals. Our bird feeder portal is a great resource for more information bird watching.

Introduction:

A chicken coop is a kind of enclosure in which the chickens live. The interior of the housing have nest boxes for the chickens to lay eggs, and also has perches for the birds to sleep on.

The interior and the exterior of a chicken coop is usually covered with material such as straw or wood chips. These collect the chicken waste making it easier to clean. A chicken coop would usually have enough ventilation for air circulation helping airing out any odors that may occur.

How to build a chicken coop:

There are six crucial elements in building a chicken coop -

The appearance:

Before you get on to constructing a chicken coop, sketch out the design of the kind of coop you need. It is not only the construction that you need to chalk out, but also the colors that you are going to use on the walls and roof of your coop.

The coop should not act as a distraction to your neighborhood if it is clearly visible to your neighbors, or be a defacement of the surroundings where you live. Therefore, your chicken coop should have an aesthetic design and have no complaints from your neighbors.

Use sound judgement:

You should always use your judgement when building a chicken coop. You would be better off in using building materials which would allow you to clean the coop easily. The door of your coop should always open inwards, and it is always better to have sliding doors so that chickens cannot come out to roost on your windows. You should consider constructing the floor of your chicken coop with material which you can easily hose without many puddles.

To find the best solution regarding Build a chicken coop, it takes a little careful planning.

Protection from Hazardous Elements:

Your chicken coop must be built in such a way that it can protect your chickens from hazardous elements such as heavy rain, wind, hale, snow, cold climates, etc, and from being eaten or killed by hungry predators.

The coop should protect the chicken from being stolen as well. The coop should be protected from draft with windows that can be opened and shut, having proper screening system, for example, a heavy gage mesh wire.

Your chicken coop must have an adequate drainage system where rain water may flow out keeping the coop dry. You need to position your chicken coop in an area where it gets the Sun which will keep the chickens warm and dry.

Coop ventilation:

You have already taken care in protecting your chicken coop from drafts. At the same time you need to maintain ventilation in the coop, allowing fair to move freely inside. The chickens inside the coop are quite safe with cold being kept out, but at the same time they would need air to breathe.

It is very necessary that the carbon dioxide accumulating inside your chicken coop be removed regularly replaced by fresh air in order that the chickens can breathe. There has to be ample movement of fresh air inside with cold drafts being kept away from entering the coop.

Light Source:

You would want your chickens to be kept warm during the cold months and yet have solid source of ventilation during the hot months of the year. Placing your chicken coop facing the South would be a good idea, where the coop may get Sunlight and air through-out the day.

You should also consider an electrical light source which will help the chickens produce great eggs all the year round. This light could easily be installed at the height of the chicken coop’s ceiling, and this would help keep the chickens warm and laying better eggs through-out the year.

Conveniently placed Water and Chicken Feeders:

You should always look into if water and chicken feeders have been placed at right places, and the flock has easy access to those areas. You should also take care in placing the containers knowing that the chickens like to make a mess of everything they eat. Try and place the feeders at the back of the chicken at a height where the chickens have to stretch their necks to eat and would not be able to reach the feeders with their feet.

Summary:

There are definitely ways to build your chicken house inexpensively. When designing your chicken coop, safety of your chickens would be your primary concern. Along with this, you should look into design factors which would keep your chickens warm and dry during the winter months, and properly aired during the summer.

For more information and advice on Build a chicken coop review, please visit our website today and see our no-nonsense FREE reviews. Our detailed and upfront reviews will assist you to end up with the perfect chicken coop to best suit your needs.

Article Source: http://www.thecontentcorner.com

Wherever there are plants in a garden there will always be insects. Some will be beneficial bugs and some will be harmful but how do you know which is which?

To keep your garden healthy and free from the bugs that eat your vegetables and plants for lunch, learn to identify the bad bugs early, and let the good bugs go ahead and do their work unhindered, as they help by feeding on your plants predators and also help in pollination.

When insect pests attack your garden plants, what you need to do is to identify the insect. This will help you to control it, be prepared, and know what plants are favored by which insects, and what time of the year they are active.

Look for clues on your plants to identify vegetable garden pests. Chewed leaves or flowers, black or gray spots on the leaves and other signs point to various pests. Garden pests leave their own individual signs and clues. Did the pest eat flowers off the plant high up on the stem? Did a nocturnal visitor chew holes through the leaves, or only the edges of the leaf? Do you see shiny silvery streaks or snail shells around the garden? A close look at the damage will reveal clues about the offending garden pest.

Aphids attack the leaves and stems of many vegetables and plants. Plants that are under attack by a large number of aphids may show signs such as reduced growth, wilted leaves, drying branches, stunted needles, and curled foliage. Look for clusters of the little bugs; they can also pass on viruses to your plants which causes them to die. Watch out for the first signs of infestation as they multiply quickly; the tiny, pear-shaped pests often appear in the spring and feast on your plants’ tender new leaves. There are many different colors of aphids and you can find green, black, brown and red ones. Aphids can quite easily be dislodged from your plant with a steady stream of water from your hosepipe or you can rub them off your plants, wearing gloves.

Ladybirds are a natural predator of aphids, as are lacewings, praying mantis and spiders, so encourage these to your garden. As a last resort, spray carefully with an insecticide such as insecticidal soap to eliminate aphids.

Slugs and snails love to chew on leaves, particularly plants growing in moist, shady locations. If you don’t seethem during the day you can often spot the trail of slime that they have left behind and there will be large holes in the leaves. You can trap slugs and snails by sinking containers of beer into your garden near damaged plants. Or sprinkle diatomaceous earth around affected plants.

The tomato hornworm eats tomato plant leaves and can strip a plant bare within hours. One natural remedy for repelling hornworms is to plant marigolds in close proximity to the tomatoes. Grasshoppers chew the leaves of vegetables and plants and can decimate a garden overnight. Birds eat grasshoppers, so attracting birds keeps them in check.

Caterpillars have huge appetites and have been known to consume entire plants almost overnight. Try to identify caterpillars before killing them. Many are not considered pests and might be the larvae of important species of butterflies or moths. You can pluck caterpillar pests by hand; they can often be found on the undersides of leaves. If physical removal isn’t practical, a bacterial spray with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) will control caterpillars.

The Colorado potato beetle plagues potatoes, eggplants, tomatoes and peppers. Adult beetles are oval and about half the size of your thumbnail. They have red heads and black and yellow stripes down their back. Females lay clusters of bright orange oval eggs on the underside of leaves. Hand picking is the gardener’s best defense against Colorado potato beetles. Knock any beetles and larvae you find into a can of soapy water to dispose of them. For major outbreaks, spray Bt San Diego while larvae are small. As a deterrent, spread thick organic mulch over the garden to make it hard for emerging beetles to reach plants in the spring.

Japanese beetles are the scourge of many gardens. Identify them by their green and golden brown bodies and holes chewed in the middle of leaves. They attack roses, hollyhocks, morning glories, and many other flowers and vegetables.

Cucumber beetles eat holes in the leaves and roots of cucumbers, corn and other members of the squash family. They have oval bodies with yellow and black stripes or spots. To control, rotate crops each year. Applying a heavy layer of mulch around plants may help curb attacks. Attract predators such as ladybugs and parasitic wasps. If necessary, apply neem oil, a botanical pesticide, to the soil to kill larvae.

Cutworms are moth larvae that live in the soil and come out at night to feast on new seedlings. Plants are often cut off completely at or just below the soil surface. Create a barrier around new plants with a plastic bottle, cut the top off and place the collar around the plant and push into the soil to prevent the cutworm from attacking the stem. Birds such as blue jays, sparrows, blackbirds and wrens feed on cutworms. Attract birds by placing bird feeders close to infested areas. You can also purchase parasitic nematodes to eat cutworms in the soil.

Prevention is better than cure every time; you should try companion planting which is favored by many experienced gardeners to deter most vegetable garden pests.

Colin Price has been gardening for many years and encounterd many garden pests. Now you can take advantage of his knowledge and success and create your own beautiful and productive garden by taking a look at => www.EquipYourGarden.com

Article Source: http://www.thecontentcorner.com